Bonsai Technique Sharimiki

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      In my previous post I discussed how to create jin on a bonsai branch. In this post I will discuss how to create sharimiki or shari  which complements jin. Sharimiki is created by stripping bark off part of the trunk. Natural sharimiki is when a tree may have been struck by lightning and part of the bark has been removed. The type of trees this is commonly seen on is junipers and pines. The basic tools needed to create sharimiki are electricians pliers and a gardening knife, however bonsai specialist tools will make the job easier. Bonsai Tools & Wire 

     As like creating jin the best time to creat sharimiki is in the summer when the flow of sap is greatest which makes it easier to strip the bark from the trunk of the tree. Be careful not to strip too much off the trunk as the tree depends on its bark to survive. When creating sharimiki keep in mind that you are working towards making it look natural so think about how it would look in nature such as how lightning strikes a trunk of a tree and which direction a branch would have fallen. Also you can study trees in nature that have gone through trauma. Relate what you have observed when creating sharimiki. When the sharamiki is complete you will need to wait for the exposed heartwood to dry and then treat the areas with a lime/sulpher solution to bleach and preserve the exposed wood. The color will be yellow at first, fade to white and then to a natural gray. For books on bonsai Click here

     To begin creating sharimiki you need to mark the position on the trunk with a pen. The next step is to cut into the bark to the heartwood and peel back the bark from the trunk using the tip of the knife. You want to create the sharimiki so it will link to the jin or jins (bark striped off the branch). You will see hair-like fibers on the surface of the heartwood - you can burn these off with a small flame. Once the sharimiki and jin are complete the tree appears much more aged or mature. The effect you want, so pat your self on the back.

Creating Jin in Bonsai

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   Creating jin is the art of  removing bark from a branch of a bonsai tree. The purpose is to give it an aged look. In nature you may see a dead branch of a tree that has been exposed to wind, rain, and bleached by the sun which eventually turns the barkless branch to a white-silvery color. This is the effect you want to create on your bonsai tree branch or branches. In nature jins are often seen on oaks, conifer, junipers and pines. Jin does not appear often on deciduous trees. (trees that lose their leaves seasonally)

     To creat a jin on a conifer, leave a stump several inches long when pruning a branch so it can be converted into a jin. Summer is the best time to do this because the sap moves the most during this season and makes it easier to remove the bark. Once you have made the jin let it dry in the sun and then apply a coat of lime/sulphur to bleach and preserve the wood. Reapply once or twice a year in the summer, doing this maintains the weather resistance of the jin. You can use a fine sandpaper to smooth and carve to refine it. This will help give it a more natural look. It's important to make sure the jin is in proportion with the other branches that have foliage.

     To start the jin, pick a branch you want to create the jin on. Remove all the foliage on the branch using branch cutters and scissors. Bonsai Tools & Wire Start at the base of the branch with a sharp knife and cut through the bark. The cut must go all around and through to the heartwood. Take the tip of the knife and cut into the bark through the heartwood from the trunk to the branch tip. Using jin pliers squeeze and twist the bark from the heartwood. Remove all the bark from the branch.  Once this is done you will see how the jin is taking shape and has a natural occurring look. To give a more natural and ragged look you can split and tear back the branch using branch cutters and pliers. Bonsai Tools & Wire It only takes a few minutes to create a weathered, natural looking jin using simple tools and it's your creative work!

                              

Wiring a Bonsai Tree

Wiring a bonsai tree is a technique used to give it a specific shape and style. You can bend and change the position of the branches by wrapping bonsai wire around them. You can position the branches to fill in spaces or wire in a downward or horizontal position to give a more mature look. It will take several weeks or a few months for the branches to stay in that position. The type of wire is important because the type of metal in the wire can be poisonous to the tree so you would need to find out what type of wire to use with the specific species of tree you have. The two basic types of wire used are copper and aluminum. Aluminum wire is easier to use for the beginner. Check with a bonsai store or an online bonsai store. Bonsai Tools & Wire

There are different thicknesses of wire available for bonsai trees. It takes 3 to 4 different thicknesses of wire to start with. Reels of wire are available in 1mm, 1 1/2mm, 2 1/2, 4mm, and goes up to 8mm. When you wire the branch or trunk the wire needs to be 1/3rd the thickness. Bonsai Tools & Wire

Most bonsai trees can be wired any time of the year. You don't want the wire to cut into the branch while it is growing so you need to check it often especially during growing season.

To start wiring you can cut the right length of wire which should be a little longer than what you need or you can wire straight from the reel. Start wrapping the wire around the base of the trunk working your way up at a 45 degree angle to a branch and wrap at the same degree angle along the branch. Wrap the trunk and primary branches first and then the secondary branches. Once you are finished wiring you can slowly and carefully bend the branches. Be careful not to break and do not change the position once you have it in place. 

When you are finished, fertilize Fertilizers and place in a proper place such as the shade. Keep an eye on the tree and remove the wire when it is time. You will need to use wire cutters Bonsai Tools & Wire

It's not good to unwind the wire. It is easier to remove by cutting the wire at every turn.

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Styling Bonsai

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When starting your own bonsai you will want to style the bonsai to fit the type of tree you are growing. It helps to observe how trees grow in nature since that will help you design a real looking miniature tree. You will also want to choose a pot that will complement the tree.Bonsai Pots   For example, pots that have sharp corners and straight sides are usually used for formally-shaped plants whereas round or oval pots are for informal designs.
You also want to consider the pot finish,color,and size. Generally deciduous trees (refers to trees that lose their leaves seasonally) are grown in glazed pots and evergreen (are plants that have leaves all year) grown in unglazed pots.Bonsai Pots

There are many different styles of bonsai. I am going to mention five common and popular styles. Bonsai Pots

The first style I want to talk about is the formal upright style (Chokkan). In this style the tree is upright, straight with a tapering trunk. The branches are broadest at the bottem and taper to the shortest at the top. This is the bonsai above.

The next style is informal upright style (Moyogi). The top of the tree is always directly above the trunk at the soil line. The trunk is irregular shape and the branches are similar to the formal upright except that the shape of the irregular trunk may break the progression of the branches by causing them to be uniquely obscure or prominent.

The third style is slant style (Shakan). The trunk of this bonsai is basically straight but is slanted.

The fourth is the cascade style (Kengai). These bonsai are made to look like trees that grow on the sides of mountains or over water.

Semi cascade style (Han Kengai) bonsai sticks out over or/and beneath the edge of the pot.

To style your formal upright tree you need to see where the main roots start by removing the surface soil. Cut away old leaves and leaves growing at the bottom of the branches.Look at your tree and decide which side you want to be the front. The front is when the branches and roots are not sticking out towards you. To shape your bonsai choose the branches you would like to use in the design. The purpose is to make it look like a real miniature tree. You want gaps between the foliage. The first branch should be about 1/3rd of the way up the trunk to the left or right. The other branches should be a little above the ones below and sticking out in different directions but not directly opposite or at the same level. Remove the branches you don't want. The desired shape of the tree is triangular but doesn't have to be perfect in that shape. You will want to trim your branches so they are longer at the bottom and tapper shorter at the top.

Have fun!

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I hope the information in this blog helped you. Thanks for visiting.

For the Beginner Bonsai Enthusiast

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If you are thinking of growing your first bonsai tree and you don't know were to start or what kind of tree to begin with here is some advice to help you make your decision. You can check with a nursery in your area for information about the best species to start with and also advise you on how to grow and care for as well as train your bonsai. It takes time and patience. There are many types of bonsai so do some research and learn about the different types of bonsai trees. There are indoor bonsais and  outdoor bonsais. Different bonsai trees have different needs and it is crucial that you know what these needs are conserning the type of tree you want to start with. Some popular bonsai trees and the best trees for bonsai are Juniper, Japanese Red Maple, Pine, Azalea (I love), Chinese Elm, Ficus, and there are more but these are a few.

You can learn through reading books on bonsai  and through nurseries and searching through the internet.Click here Basically how it works is that you wait for it to grow, trim, cut, wait for the tree to grow, cut the roots, pinch off growth and so forth and also use wire to train the tree to grow in the style you want.  It's your own piece of art work like your own creation as far as how the tree looks as it is growing because you are training it to grow in the shape you want it to. It's important that you understand that the style should fit the type of bonsai tree you have. The type of care is specific to the type of bonsai tree. Also keep in mind that you have to deal with potential diseases that you can't avoid but deal with by consulting with the experts which is of course the nurseries. They know what to do as they have so many plants to keep healthy and disease free so use them for their expertise. Do not try to style a bonsai tree if it is sick. Nurse it back to health first and then style it. Make sure you find a nursery that specializes in bonsai trees. They can show you how to wire and prune, fertilize, water, and so forth.

You can start your first bonsai tree from seeds but it can take over a year before you can begin pruning. It would be easier to purchase a starter bonsai from a nursery or from an online bonsai site . That way you can start your indoor or outdoor bonsai now. The best starter bonsai to start with is Tropical or subtropical trees. These include Semi-tropical Sea Grape which have large leaves but can be cut down to look good, Japanese Red Maple which are hardy, and Chinese Elm which are sturdy and can adjust to different styles of bonsai.
It is important that you consider the temperature and light when you place your bonsai. The bonsai tree needs morning sun and shade in the heat of the day. Some will take full sun and others won't. It just depends on the type of tree you have.
Other important factors to consider are soil, fertilizer, Pruning.
For soil you want to make sure that you have right type of soil for your bonsai. The pH balance needs differ for different trees.Bonsai Soils
You need to make sure that the bonsai fertilizer is right for your tree.Click here for fertilizer It needs to be water soluble. You should apply the bonsai fertilizer one or two times a month- Follow according to the growing season. The soil should be loose and wet.
Now here's the art of bonsai, pruning, prune the branches at the start of spring. Leave the branches you want to keep and make sure you leave enough branches so the tree can live. If the roots are bound to the inside of the pot then cut the roots. It's better to use pruning tools especially for bonsai trees because they are designed specifically for that purpose and it makes pruning easier. Bonsai Tools & Wire

Japanese Red Maple, TLC

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Japanese Red Maple is native to Japan and China. The leaves determine its botanical name. The bark turns brown or gray with age but is red or green when young.

The factors involved in caring for a Japanese Red Maple are these:

Location, Watering, Fertilizing, Pruning, Wiring, Repotting, Insects and diseases. I will explain these in more detail.

Do not place the Japanese Red Maple in direct sunlight. It should be placed where it will receive morning or evening sun and do not water in direct sun because the foliage can burn.

Moist soil is best for the Japanese Red Maple. They need to be watered daily with good drainage. You don't want the roots to rot from too much water and not enough drainage. You can purchase an inexpensive moisture meter to help you determine the right amount of water for your Japanese Red Bonsai tree. You can also place the pot in a tub of water about an inch deep to absorb up the holes in the bottom of the pot. Bonsai Humidity Trays

Next you want to correctly fertilize your bonsai tree.Fertilizers It is very important to keeping it healthy with the right fertilizer. With each watering the the soil is washed away. When repotting do not feed for a month or two after repotting during the hottest part of the summer. You can use chemical fertlilizers if you want. You can use 20-20-20 and/or you can use or feed every 20-30 days with a slow-acting organic fertilizer in the spring and autumn.

So as not to overstress the root system you should prune the roots and branches. Prune the branches in the fall or winter, this avoids too much loss of sap. Also the shape of the tree is more pronounced. You can seal pruning wounds with a wound dressing with a putty from Japan. It's good to pinch back new growth to develop fine branches and avoid long internodes (the stem is normally divided into nodes and internodes, the nodes hold buds which grow into one or more leaves.) To avoid long internodes and develop fine branches you can pinch back the new growth. Pinch back new growth during the growing season to avoid long internodes and to develop fine branches. You want to keep the internodes short so if the branch has a long internode then you need to cut back the branch to the first internode and regrow it. Prune the leaves which involves removing the leaves during the growing season and this should be done in the early summer every other year. This will encourage smaller leaves. You want to encourage a false autumn by removing all the leaves but leaving the leaf stems. The second set of leaves will be smaller. If you repot do not leaf prune in the same year.

To shape Maples you might need to wire,Bonsai Tools & Wire but pruning and pinching usually shape maples. If you need to wire then do this in the summer because the tree will be in full leaf. You should protect the bark with raffia . (Raffia is long fibers from the Raffia Palm (Raphia farinifera)the wire should not be left on for more than six months. You can shape the trunk by tying it to a stake or you can keep it straight.

It is always necessary to repot bonsai trees.Ceramic/Mica Bonsai Pots For young trees repot every other year and for older trees repot every two or three years. You need to repot in the spring and cut the roots half their length. Remove dead roots to avoid root rot.

Of course there is always the threat of diseases and insects so you need to be prepared for that threat. These problems include mildew, root rot, and amphids. You can control amphids by spraying with for example 'Atomic Grow for Amphids' which is all natural and actually rebalances your tree. Signs of amphids are honey dew on the lower leaves and leaf drop.

Always maintain good drainage to avoid root rot and mildew.

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